Voltor 2023 Vin Jaune and velvety tannins that sit

and velvety tannins that sit like soft flannel rather than a stiff suit

working old vines by hand and without chemicals

it asks nothing of you but a glass

giving this bottling both immediacy and length

and everything runs on native yeast with no fining

Voltor 2023 Vin Jaune and velvety tannins that sitVoltor is the Catalan word for vulture, which suits a wine carrying this much presence. Jessica Albero and Laurent Pujol make it on skins, drawing tannin and grip out of white grapes grown across seven hectares between Vingrau and Paziols. Their white plantings run to Macabeu and two kinds of Muscat, which in the Roussillon gives an aromatic starting point that maceration then roughens up considerably. Expect dried apricot, orange peel and a tea leaf